I’m a New Yorker, and I run. I get bored doing laps around the park or running up and down the Hudson River path. Instead, I use my long-distance runs to explore the neighborhoods in my city, especially in the outer boroughs. I’ve decided to take a cheap digital camera with me on some of my runs to document the city and its changes as seen when crossing on foot.


Monday, June 21, 2010

"The best public housing project ever built in New York"

That's how the AIA Guide to New York City describes the Williamsburg Houses, which were built in 1937 as a project of the Public Works Administration. The raised stainless-steel street signs on the apartments caught my eye as I passed them on this run; I didn't realize until I got home and did more research that these were the easily the most important buildings, both architecturally and historically, along the route. So I had to come back.

The Williamsburg Houses are NYCHA public housing, but they have a different history than most other city projects. They went up before the Housing Act of 1937, which among other things mandated extremely tight controls on construction costs. So the apartments were built to a higher standard than later megaprojects like Red Hook and Queensbridge. The public housing historian Nicholas Dagen Bloom writes:
Williamsburg's modernist designs offered a machine aesthetic but did not achieve industrial scale economies. The four-story walk-ups.... [were costly] because the low heights did not at that point balance out high land costs. Glazed brick stair hall exteriors, high ceilings in the apartments, wood floors, closet doors, and commodious kitchens raised expenses. Each building also had up to eight stairwells with only two apartment entrances on each landing. Williamsburg... looked cheap but was comparatively expensive.
In 2003, the Williamsburg Houses were designated a landmark, in part out of appreciation for their Modernist design. This represents another turn of the screw in intellectual fashion, I guess. If you took Intro to Architecture in college, you came away with the idea that weird European Modernist ideas about superblocks, breaking up the street grid, and "towers in the park" were almost entirely to blame for the disastrous state of American public housing and the decline of cities in general. Anybody who's ever visited Stuyvesant Town in Manhattan or Sandburg Village in Chicago—upper-middle-class communities that look just like public housing towers—knows that this story was way too simple. Still, if the Modernism works here, it's probably because the PWA avoided towers and maintained a human-friendly scale. Unfortunately, that turned out to cost quite a bit more more than Congress and local political machines were willing to pay to house low-income families.

It would be easy to wax rhapsodic about the New Deal idealism behind such an ambitious low-income housing development. (Below, a picture of one of the tenement apartments it replaced.) But the projects in New York and elsewhere were also segregated at birth: Of the original 1,650 families in Williamsburg, just one was black, writes Wendell E. Pritchett in his biography of the African-American New Dealer Robert Clifton Weaver. Another project built around the same time, in Harlem, was almost entirely black. It was considered a limited victory at the time that the Harlem project was even built, that African-Americans were able to get jobs on housing-project construction sites, and that the projects at least weren't used as an excuse to clear blacks out of neighborhoods to replace them with whites. As Pritchett observes, public housing's entanglement in racial segregation is at least as important to the story of its failure as Le Corbusier's bad ideas about architecture.

The archival pictures here are from The New Deal Network. Below are my own pictures. I'll close with a few more thoughts and links.


From Bushwick



From Bushwick


From Bushwick


From Bushwick


From Bushwick


From Bushwick


From Bushwick
I try not to get too heavy in these posts. This is, after all, a blog about the rather eccentric activity of jogging with a camera. And snapping the outsides of buildings while running past them affords only modest insight into the lives lived inside them. But when you explore the outer boroughs on foot, it's hard not to be aware that the vast majority of people in this city get by on extremely tight budgets, and that a lot of them live in public housing. Nationally, the failure of the projects is so well-known that even liberals rarely talk about a right to decent, affordable housing anymore. (And this in a country that massively subsidizes homeownership in the higher tax brackets.) But reading more about the Williamsburg Houses got me thinking about how little I really know about public housing, even though it has shaped both my city and my neighborhood. (I live just a couple of blocks from the Whitman Houses.) How big a failure has it really been in New York? What do we know about how it fails and how it succeeds? Here's an interview with historian Bloom, in which he makes a compelling case that the NYC projects were a relative success in providing affordable housing, and shouldn't be lumped in with what happened in Chicago, St. Louis, Baltimore, etc. This article from the conservative City Journal paints a grimmer picture... and then sets up the argument for what sounds to me like the mother of all real-estate boondoggles. As for those Chicago projects, this short history of the Robert Taylor Homes (pdf) sheds a lot of light on why big projects so often failed, and is a reminder of a real weakness of post-war urban liberalism: When planners made an inevitable mistake—such as building too many large family apartments, which over-saturated the projects with teenagers—the sheer scale of their designs and the bureaucracy made it difficult to adjust.

There's a fledgling National Public Housing Museum in the works in Chicago, which hopefully will engage with these questions. It's said to be modeled on the excellent Lower East Side Tenement Museum, a place everyone in New York should visit at least once.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

The Sixth Borough: Hudson County, NJ


The cities just on the other side of the Hudson—especially Jersey City and Hoboken—are like a mirrored New York. Because Hudson County is surrounded on three sides by water (the Hudson, Kill Van Kull, Newark Bay, and the Hackensack River and Meadowlands marsh), it feels almost as separate from the rest of New Jersey as Manhattan does. It's densely packed, has a skyline that would do a Cleveland or a San Jose proud, and a big-city worthy transit network, with both a new light-rail trolley and a subway (the PATH) connecting to lower Manhattan and the Village. (Click here for the interactive map of my run.) If you can ignore the arbitrary political boundaries, JC and Hoboken are almost as woven into the fabric of the city as Brooklyn and Queens across the opposite river.

But those boundaries are hard to ignore. To the average NYC snob—and I'm afraid I'm one of those—the first stop on the PATH over the river might as well be the Moon or Montclair. It's still, you know, New Jersey. Historically, there's evidence that even people who've live in Jersey City haven't had a strong sense of their hometown as a distinctive, interesting place on the map. In her memoir The Place You Love Is Gone, former Hoboken resident Melissa Holbrook Pierson writes:
In the late fifties some researchers finally went around and asked people the most important thing of all: what the places they lived in felt like. Of the three cities studied, Boston, Los Angeles, and Hoboken's twin, Jersey City, the latter was found to be peculiarly poorly differentiated or "imageable," as the study has it. Its denizens' recall of its layout was far worse than those in the other two cities: "Many descriptions of the scene by established residents, young or old, were accompanied by the ghosts of what used to be there. Changes, such as those wrought by the freeway system, have left scars on the mental image."
Much more change was to come. They knocked down the minor-league stadium where Jackie Robinson played the first integrated pro baseball game. A gated condo development stands in its place. Later, JC sprouted a slick new waterfront business district of glassy office towers and "luxury" apartments for the junior financial analysts and computer programmers who toil there. If you've been to Arlington's Pentagon City, the London Docklands, or Cambridge's Kendall Square, you've been to the JC waterfront. That's where my run started. After that, things quickly get more interesting—the city really won me over. There are blocks and blocks of Brooklynesque brownstones. The way you know you aren't in Cobble Hill is that the power and telephone lines are all overhead, and the neighborhoods are arranged around gorgeous Victorian square parks. Some buildings on the corner lots have street markers on their walls, like you see in Europe.

Then there's the former Jersey City Medical Center, a huge mass of Art Deco skyscrapers built with money from the Works Progress Administration. It was the special project of Mayor Frank Hague, a classic Democratic machine boss. According to this New Jersey City U. site, the
Medical Center provided free care to residents who couldn't pay, which must have been most of them—the hospital cost $3 million a year to run, but supposedly billed patients just $15,000 in 1929. It went bankrupt in 1988. The buildings have since been converted into loft-style condos. I think you have the whole social history of the U.S. over the last 50 years right there...

My run also took me through Journal Square, JC's real commercial hub and the heart of its large Filipino and South Asian communities. On the other side of the Holland Tunnel entrance from Jersey City is Hoboken, the funny-sounding mile-square city of Frank Sinatra, On the Waterfront, Yo La Tengo, and my favorite book when I was ten. (It occurs to me now that jogging with a camera is a very Pinkwater kind of hobby.) Since the 1980s, Hoboken has gone from working-class 'burg of cold-water tenements ("The place they forgot to clean, forgot to love, forgot," writes Pierson) to affluent urban playground. A rash of deadly arsons preceded a boom in development; it seems like it was an easy way to clear out low-rent tenants. Today, Hoboken is certainly beautiful—compact, walkable from end to end, packed with old brick townhouses—but it also makes Park Slope seem diverse and edgy. The city has a W hotel now. And a Five Guys. All it needs now is an NYU dorm. As Pierson writes about Hoboken's '80s transformation: "Hoboken was not changing so much as being eradicated. They kept only the name the same."

Like I said, it's really just another part of New York.

Now on to the pictures, most of them after the jump:

From jersey
Starting at the waterfront

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Industrial Brooklyn: The Eastern District and English Kills

In 1854, the City of Brooklyn annexed the City of Williamsburgh (still with the mysteriously lost "h" then) and the Town of Bushwick. These areas became Brooklyn's Eastern District.

Which is confusing. The old Eastern District is the far northern tip of the modern borough, and is now generally referred to as North Brooklyn. I usually think I'm headed straight north when I go from my home in Fort Greene up to Williamsburg, but as you can see from the map, that isn't quite accurate--it's the same kind of schematization of a mental map that, as Tom Vanderbilt explained recently in Slate, causes people to think San Diego is west of Reno. Most Brooklynites are hopeless about cardinal directions. Unlike, say, Manhattan or Chicago, the street grid doesn't help--because so many neighborhoods were once their own city or village, Brooklyn has multiple grids that crash together at weird angles. People also tend to orient themselves to Manhattan, and the Williamsburg Bridge is "uptown" of the Brooklyn Bridge, even though it's at least as geographically accurate to say that it's to the east. If you can wrap your head around that fact, you've gone a long way toward your black belt in Not Getting Lost In Brooklyn.

This run was a couple of months ago, during the lashing rain storm that brought down so many old trees in the New York area. (You can see my interactive MapMyRun map here.) Fortunately, there weren't many trees on my route, because this run took me through the industrial heart of the Eastern District. I had wanted to check out two things. First, I had been vaguely aware that Bogart Street was turning into New York's latest artist/hipster quarter. (As a much cooler co-worker said to me later, "Were you the only guy there without a beard?" Yes.) And I wanted to see a couple of the more obscure bridges in the city, which cross the Newtown Creek and its tributary, English Kills.

As you'll guess looking at the blurred photos, I came pretty close to wrecking my camera in the rain. And I didn't notice probably the most interesting buildings on my route: the Williamsburg Houses. But I'll have more on those in my next post.

From brooklyn industry
The Navy Yard waterfront


From brooklyn industry
Working man's kosher


From brooklyn industry
The pformer Pfizer pfacility


From brooklyn industry
All Saints

From brooklyn industry


From brooklyn industry


From brooklyn industry
Apparitions of Our Lady of Guadalupe and the miracle of the roses

From brooklyn industry
Just off Bogart Street

From brooklyn industry
Cafe Orwell

From brooklyn industry
Bogart Street


From brooklyn industry


From brooklyn industry
I should have bought one of those slickers.

From brooklyn industry
For the subtle and discriminating gentleman

From brooklyn industry
English Kills

From brooklyn industry
Metropolitan Ave. Bridge over English Kills

From brooklyn industry
Grand St. Bridge over Newtown Creek, Brooklyn side

From brooklyn industry


From brooklyn industry
Queens side

From brooklyn industry
Bridge operators shack. (The bridge can swing open.)

From brooklyn industry


From brooklyn industry
Back near the Navy Yard

From brooklyn industry
Washington Avenue

Things One Carries While Running

Your blogger sometimes finds running with a camera a bit awkward.

And then there a people who run with laser-sighted pistols loaded with hollow-point bullets.

From the AP:

AUSTIN -- Pistol-packing Texas Gov. Rick Perry has a message for wily coyotes out there: Don't mess with my dog.

Perry (R) told the Associated Press on Tuesday that he needed just one shot from the laser-sighted pistol he sometimes carries while jogging to take down a coyote that menaced his puppy during a February run near Austin.

Perry said he carries his .380 Ruger -- loaded with hollow-point bullets -- when jogging on trails because he is afraid of snakes. But when a coyote came out of the brush toward his daughter's Labrador retriever, Perry charged.

I visited Austin a couple of years ago, and had a great run there along the river. It hadn't occurred to me that some of my fellow joggers might have been packing heat. I think I'm glad I didn't know.

Monday, April 26, 2010

A short run in Clinton Hill and Bedford-Stuyvesant

This blog's been quiet lately because I haven't been running much. I needed some time to recover from the marathon, and I had a big story to write for my magazine. More to come soon, but here are some shots from my first run after the big race. It was just a couple of miles near my house, and went past what's left of Broken Angel.

From recovery run
Ghost bike on Greene


From recovery run
Jaz Tattoo came to a party at my house once. A name you don't forget...


From recovery run
The Broken Angel


From recovery run


From recovery run
Bed-Stuy greystones; unusual for this area


From recovery run
Evening Star Baptist


From recovery run
An interesting new brownstone infill


From recovery run
A former "Sonntag's schule"—Sunday school


From recovery run
Almost none of my neighborhood—or Brooklyn—looks like
this anymore. Which is why I took this picture...

.

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Race Report: National Marathon in D.C.

My daughter runs to meet me around mile 16, on Constitution Avenue:


The last runner in race, juggling as he goes:


Don't let the sweeper catch you:


Later that day, my first beer in three months:



My wife took the pictures; I didn't bring my camera for this run. I'm not one of those runners who fights for PRs, so I wasn't worried about losing time. But I was a bit worried about finishing. This wasn't my first marathon—that was the Illinois Marathon, a year ago—but I didn't have time to train as well for this one.

I finished, but I was right to worry. The National is a challenging marathon with a lot of hills. It starts with a long gradual climb toward Capitol Hill from the east, which you have to repeat after mile 13. There's also a sharp hill from DuPont Circle up to Kalorama Park and Adams Morgan. (Years ago, on a business trip to D.C., I remember hitting that hill on a short run from my hotel and not being able to take it.) Somewhere after mile 23 in Anacostia, there's a final rise that's a real killer.

But what really made the race hard was the weather: By the time I finished, it was over 75 degrees. And of course I wasn't trained for that kind of heat. My last long run had been in freezing, pelting rain and tree-ripping wind; the one before that, I was climbing over piles of snow on every curb.

The race was well-organized and I had fun, but I wouldn't recommend it to most slow marathoners, especially if you're the kind who finds it helpful to run in a crowd with a lot of spectator support. You have to qualify with a sub-5-hr. marathon to run it. My previous race was 4:50, and that meant I started in the very last corral. Most of the people in that corral were signed up for the concurrent half-marathon. Since it was also their last corral, it meant that I was sharing the course with people who were about as uncertain of their ability to complete 13 miles that day as I was of finishing 26. I'm hardly going to complain about them—we slow-motion, long-distance joggers are a band of brothers and sisters—but it isn't easy psychologically to watch so many people dropping out or walking just nine or ten miles in when you still have 16 to go.

And when the halfers split off, the back of the pack got very lonely. Spectators are pretty thin in this marathon (probably because it starts at 7 o'clock) and that's especially true in the back half, which runs through an industrial and warehouse district in the SE quadrant and then through a shadeless riverfront park along the Anacostia.

Even so, I loved the course. I go to D.C. often on business, and it's a city I've had mixed feelings about. It's full of interesting people and impressive architecture, but the downtown and the Federal buildings are a flop in terms of urbanism. Because government buildings take up whole blocks, you can walk for a very long time before finding a cafe or a shop--and when you do, it's likely to be a Starbucks or an Au Bon Pain. It just doesn't feel like a city in those parts. But the race course quickly breaks away from Monumental Washington and into D.C.'s real neighborhoods of painted brick row houses, bars, restaurants and universities (notably Howard). It turns out to be a beautiful, lively town.

Seeing my wife at kids and mile 16 helped get me through the hard slog. So did a runner I met as we limped through mile 24. I had just just pounded down a Powerade and let out a loud belch. That inspired the guy next to me to tell a joke:
Two strangers, a man and woman, have adjacent bunks on a train's sleeper car. The man takes the top bunk, and the woman takes the bottom bunk, which is near the cubby where the blankets are kept. The lights go out. A half hour passes. The guy calls down to the woman below:

"Its chilly in here. Can you hand me another blanket?"

"I have an idea," she says. "How about just for tonight we pretend we're married."

"Sounds like a great idea," he says.

"Good... get your own f----ing blanket."

Five minutes later, he farts.
Okay, that's pretty terrible. But it ate up a quarter mile of pain. Thanks Mystery Joke Guy!