I’m a New Yorker, and I run. I get bored doing laps around the park or running up and down the Hudson River path. Instead, I use my long-distance runs to explore the neighborhoods in my city, especially in the outer boroughs. I’ve decided to take a cheap digital camera with me on some of my runs to document the city and its changes as seen when crossing on foot.


Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Race Report: National Marathon in D.C.

My daughter runs to meet me around mile 16, on Constitution Avenue:


The last runner in race, juggling as he goes:


Don't let the sweeper catch you:


Later that day, my first beer in three months:



My wife took the pictures; I didn't bring my camera for this run. I'm not one of those runners who fights for PRs, so I wasn't worried about losing time. But I was a bit worried about finishing. This wasn't my first marathon—that was the Illinois Marathon, a year ago—but I didn't have time to train as well for this one.

I finished, but I was right to worry. The National is a challenging marathon with a lot of hills. It starts with a long gradual climb toward Capitol Hill from the east, which you have to repeat after mile 13. There's also a sharp hill from DuPont Circle up to Kalorama Park and Adams Morgan. (Years ago, on a business trip to D.C., I remember hitting that hill on a short run from my hotel and not being able to take it.) Somewhere after mile 23 in Anacostia, there's a final rise that's a real killer.

But what really made the race hard was the weather: By the time I finished, it was over 75 degrees. And of course I wasn't trained for that kind of heat. My last long run had been in freezing, pelting rain and tree-ripping wind; the one before that, I was climbing over piles of snow on every curb.

The race was well-organized and I had fun, but I wouldn't recommend it to most slow marathoners, especially if you're the kind who finds it helpful to run in a crowd with a lot of spectator support. You have to qualify with a sub-5-hr. marathon to run it. My previous race was 4:50, and that meant I started in the very last corral. Most of the people in that corral were signed up for the concurrent half-marathon. Since it was also their last corral, it meant that I was sharing the course with people who were about as uncertain of their ability to complete 13 miles that day as I was of finishing 26. I'm hardly going to complain about them—we slow-motion, long-distance joggers are a band of brothers and sisters—but it isn't easy psychologically to watch so many people dropping out or walking just nine or ten miles in when you still have 16 to go.

And when the halfers split off, the back of the pack got very lonely. Spectators are pretty thin in this marathon (probably because it starts at 7 o'clock) and that's especially true in the back half, which runs through an industrial and warehouse district in the SE quadrant and then through a shadeless riverfront park along the Anacostia.

Even so, I loved the course. I go to D.C. often on business, and it's a city I've had mixed feelings about. It's full of interesting people and impressive architecture, but the downtown and the Federal buildings are a flop in terms of urbanism. Because government buildings take up whole blocks, you can walk for a very long time before finding a cafe or a shop--and when you do, it's likely to be a Starbucks or an Au Bon Pain. It just doesn't feel like a city in those parts. But the race course quickly breaks away from Monumental Washington and into D.C.'s real neighborhoods of painted brick row houses, bars, restaurants and universities (notably Howard). It turns out to be a beautiful, lively town.

Seeing my wife at kids and mile 16 helped get me through the hard slog. So did a runner I met as we limped through mile 24. I had just just pounded down a Powerade and let out a loud belch. That inspired the guy next to me to tell a joke:
Two strangers, a man and woman, have adjacent bunks on a train's sleeper car. The man takes the top bunk, and the woman takes the bottom bunk, which is near the cubby where the blankets are kept. The lights go out. A half hour passes. The guy calls down to the woman below:

"Its chilly in here. Can you hand me another blanket?"

"I have an idea," she says. "How about just for tonight we pretend we're married."

"Sounds like a great idea," he says.

"Good... get your own f----ing blanket."

Five minutes later, he farts.
Okay, that's pretty terrible. But it ate up a quarter mile of pain. Thanks Mystery Joke Guy!

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Run to Forest Park and Highland Park and around the interborough necropolis

To best view the slideshow, click on the black border first, then the blue play button. If you click the green play button or the photo first, you will be redirected to my Picasa page. It's a bug I hope Google fixes soon.

Look at a map of Brooklyn and Queens and you'll see a long swath of green straddling the borough line. It's not a park, but a jumble of the Jackie Robinson Parkway, two great wooded parks linked to Olmsted, a golf course, and more than a dozen cemeteries. This run circled the whole complex, mostly by way of Myrtle and Jamaica avenues. It was a slightly disappointing outing: Heavy snow made the going difficult and prevented me from exploring much of the parks. I also felt a bit chilled toward the back half and had to cut short a planned 20-mile run at about 15.

Still, I reached the main goal of the run: The little-known, hill-climbing Brooklyn enclave of Highland Park, and the park of the same name. The park sits on top of the borough line and includes the old Ridgewood Reservoir. When Brooklyn was its own city, it drew its water from Long Island. The borough was later linked up to NYC's system, which draws from the Catskills, but traces of the old system survive on the map: Conduit Blvd./Ave., Aqueduct Racetrack, and the magically named Force Tube Avenue.

At very the end of A Walker in the City, Alfred Kazin describes his walks around the reservoir, which sits atop a high hill, and its views of the city skyline on one side and the flatlands of East New York and Brownsville on the other. The park appears as the center point on which his whole life has balanced.

On Google Maps, the reservoir looks like three lakes with a running path. I had expected a scenic run around a frozen pond. But as you can see in the photos, what I found was a chain-link fence surrounding a sunken wood. Turns out the reservoir's been drained, although a small natural pond remains in the middle basin. The land is closed off, creating a huge natural green space in the middle of the city. Here's a Flickr set I found which suggests that its quite beautiful on other side of that fence. The parks department acquired the land a few years ago and there's been a fight over what to do with it. Environmentalists, preservationists, birdwatchers and people who choreograph dances about abandoned reservoirs want to keep the land much as it is. The parks department and some church groups and community activists would like see a part of the land used for ball fields. Highland Park is adjacent to some of New York's poorest communities, so there's a case to be made that recreational facilities could be the greater good here. I can see both sides on this one—here's a fairly balanced take. But whatever happens, I hope there's a way to make the reservoir more accessible. If a fraction of the civic energy that went into opening up the High Line in Manhattan could go into Highland Park, it seems like we could do something spectacular in part of the city that could use a little love.

Other highlights:
  • Along Myrtle Ave. in Bushwick, the remnants of the old Myrtle Ave. El, which used to have a station right at my building's front door.
  • A tumbledown Bushwick mansion that used to be the home of Frederick Cook, who—depending on which part of the Internets you want to believe—was either robbed of the distinction of being first to reach the North Pole or was "a criminal sociopath whose ill gotten gains were inherited by his equally vindictive daughter to carry on a trans-generational perversion of history." Gosh.
  • The Justice League of America's insufficiently secret hideout.
  • Ridgewood, Queens, and its distinctive yellow-brick row houses.
  • Forest Park, one of my favorite running destinations. Frederick Law Olmsted played some role in designing the main drive that runs through the woods. Although the park is in Queens, it was originally planned by the then-City of Brooklyn as "Brooklyn Forest Park."
  • Richmond Hill and Woodhaven... and the least-justifiable historical marker in a city that hasn't gotten around to marking Walt Whitman's house.
  • A peek through the gates at Hunterfly Road, the last remaining houses from one of the earliest settlements of free African-Americans
  • A Ghost Bike
By the way: In eight days, I'm running a marathon in D.C. (Yikes.) I don't think I'll take a camera.